Arrvied in Saigon!

We’ve arrived! The traffic is as just as bad in Saigon as it was in Hanoi!

But it's great to be in Saigon and we're delighted to finish the project by visiting a local secondary school. We gave them a clean copy of the book of Sunderland that we've been using to explain to people we've met on the trip where Sunderland is and what it is like.

Saigon

Arriving in Saigon late at night with Jennie feeling tired and unwell brought an anticlimax to the completion of our epic journey. A good night's sleep, Thai massage and some retail therapy did the trick, and the following day we had a good visit to a local high school, to present the Sunderland book and forge links with the staff and students.

With time ever pressing we sneaked a glimpse at the local process of lacquering and visited the Reunification Palace in the centre of Saigon.

This amazing government building was finished just prior to the American war in Vietnam, and despite the huge loss of life on both sides the palace has never been put into use. Today its deserted corridors and restrictions on photography make a fitting reminder of the futility of conflict.

The streets in Saigon are equally as busy as in Hanoi, but much wider; there are 8 million people living here, and 6 million scooters. It was lovely to see the Chinese lanterns again, which will now always have a special meaning for us.

After steep negotiation with the hotel, our faithful cameras did their last piece of work in the aptly-named Saigon Saigon Bar on the roof of the Caravelle. Jennie's concluding piece to camera was quite moving, and as the sun set over the city we toasted the end of our amazing journey.

South through Vietnam

We were now entering a tropical landscape, leaving the wet monsoon weather behind us with palms and cloudless blue skies ahead.






















The train, although a soft sleeper, was really rickety and slow, very different to the modern fast trains in China. Station platforms are non-existent, you have to walk around the end of one train to get to another; some people don't bother and crawl underneath the carriages instead.




The train meanders southwards along the beautiful coast, and we break our long journey in Nha Trang. Here we catch our first sight of the sea since leaving Sunderland 6 weeks and 9000miles ago, beautiful turqoise waters and sandy beaches.














We shared our trip with two old ladies, very interested in us and in having their photograph taken. They were strangers, but it was interesting to observe the intimacy between them.




















We all enjoy a swim in the crystal clear waters of the South China Sea; the balmy temperatures are a long way from the icy Urals and Siberia, and our down coats and winter layers are now securely packed at the bottom of out bags.





















The relentless heat and fresh seafood takes its toll, and Jennie rests while Kate and Jon explore the town.

It's been a gruelling journey and a punishing schedule and we are all feeling the effects and are rundown despite taking care and popping vitimins each day. There are mixed feelings at the fact there are only a few days of our journey remaining.

Our last country

Having dragged ourselves reluctantly away from Guilin we headed south on the closing stage of our journey towards Vietnam. The landscape through our carriage window changed from the dramatic mountains to flatter, fertile land, and over the 24 hour trip paddy fields gave way to sugar cane and numerous little farmsteads billowing steam.






The vietnam border approached just after midnight and five hours later, after immigration, health and custom checks had been completed we grabbed a few hours' sleep on the old Vietnam train before disembarking in Hanoi.

Our hotel was in the old quarter of town, and the French architecture indicated the city's colonial past. Scooters and cyclos, beeping their horns and ringing their bells, rule the narrow streets, weaving their way around like swarms of buzzing bees. There is no Highway Code in Vietnam, anything goes on the road.

The distinct lack of Westerners throughout our trip was more than balanced out in Hanoi, where we blended in amongst the Lonely Planet-wielding crowds.

The warm climate means people live their lives outside on the street: cooking and eating, washing and grooming.

Despite these pictures, we encountered rain for the first time since Berlin, and it justified carrying our umbrella for 9000 miles!

Guilin

We arrive in beautiful Guilin, a city of karst limestone peaks, Osmanthus trees and spectacular caves. This cave is called Ludi Yan (Reed Flute cave) and is one of many underground caves carved out of the limestone by natural acid rain. The rock formations are lit with neon lights, and given funny names like ' The snowman', 'stage curtain' and 'mushroom hill' according to their strange shapes.

Street sellers ply their wares outside the caves - postcards, photobooks and little bamboo whistles. This is definitely a tourist city.





The flat plains beside the Li river are rich and fertile farming land, supplied with nutrient rich silt from river floods. At the top of the valley, we see a patchwork quilt of crops below, in colours of white, yellow and green. Its such a pretty landscape, we pause for a while to enjoy it and take lots of photos and film.


The weathered limestone reminds me of the magnesian 'cannonball limestone' along the Sunderland coast. It was also formed under the sea, millions of years ago.







On the Li river fishermen on bamboo rafts use trained cormorants to help them catch fish. We see the birds resting on a raft by a jetty, which teems with village life. A man unloads several long bamboo boats from his tiny wagon, and floats them on the water, as other men industriously sweep the concrete jetty with huge straw brooms.

Cruiser boats zip past on the water, ploughing up big plumes of water, but the quiet punting of the bamboo boats really suits this tranquil place.


I imagine what the bamboo boats would look like floating up the river Wear - what a fantastic sight that would be! Maybe its a new Museum project....















In a nearby village close to Yangshuo we soak up the farming landscape, remembering that over 70% of Chinese people work in agriculture. People carry their produce and farming tools up and down the street, past the long orderly fields of orange trees and plots of cabbages and greens.

I see family life happening all around, with mums pegging out washing, dads plucking chickens and children peeking round corners of doors, looking at these strange faced visitors on the road.





























Back in busy Guilin city the night market is doing brisk trade, with balloon sellers, craftspeople and food stalls selling sugar cane juice. The air is so warm and balmy, we don't need coats - which is a shock after the cold of Russia and Northern China.

A highlight is the flute players, treating us to traditional Guilin music from the red market stalls. I can't resist buying a gourd musical pipe, then realise its impossible to play! They make it look so easy.















The famous moon and sun pagodas cast their silver and golden lights on the Rong and Shan lakes. Its our last visual treat in Guilin. Time to say our goodbyes to China and head for our next and last country, Vietnam. I can't believe we are on the last leg of this incredible journey.

Beijing

We travel through a smog filled Beijing city, towards the Great Wall of China at Badaling. The visibility is so bad, we wonder if we'll see very much at all! As we get closer the smog clears and the sun shines which is such a relief. Its a special treat to take the cable car to the top section and look down on one of the wonders of the world.

It reminds me of our North of England wonder, Hadrians Wall, snaking its way across the hills into the distance.



Never mind the Great Wall, its the Sunderland to Saigon travel team who become the main attraction! Lots of Chinese visitors ask to have their photos taken with us and it feels really strange, but we are happy to pose for pictures and tell them about our amazing project.

Every tourist attraction has its souvenirs, and the Great Wall is no different. I pick up a medal for the Museum exhibition, which says, 'Jennie climbed the great wall of China on 21st February 2007'. Other tourists have a special certificate and photo taken at the top.

The experience is so special I call my partner at home in Washington (at 4 in the morning) to tell him I am at the Great Wall of China. Its a very personal moment to remember.

Its also amazing to reflect that after 30 days of non stop travel, sleeping, eating and sharing everything together, Jon, Kate and I are all still good friends.

Later we find an historical gem in the China Railway Museum. Locomotive number 0 is the oldest ever train in China, and was actually made in Gateshead, North East England in 1881. Being born in Gateshead too, I feel very proud to stand beside this little Engine and tell its special story to camera. It reminds me that the North East of England is the birthplace of the railways of the world, which on this longest train journey of 9300 miles from Sunderland to Saigon is the most fantastic thought to reflect on.

A true railway enthusiast's eyes light up with pleasure at the sight of trains.

Tian'anmen square is a riot of red flags against blue skies. After checking out the Beijing 2008 countdown clock, 533 days, 7 hours and 33 minutes to go, we wander among the crowds of visitors, all recording their family visits with photographs. People fly pretty chains of flags, its just like the Sunderland International Kite Festival! I buy a panda kite to remind me of the visit to China's capital city. The green coated soldiers solemnly marching past, are a moving reminder of Tian'anmens squares bloody history.

The strong wind fully extends the red flags in the square - it reminds me of a flag outside the Berlin Reichstag, many weeks ago....

Chinese New Year in Lanzhou and Datong

Lanzhou is an industrial city on the route of the ancient silk road in China. Arriving in early evening we delight in the red lantern decorations, covering each girder of the iron bridge. The bridge spans the famous Yellow River and is 100 years old this year, the same age as Sunderland Empire Theatre - Happy Birthday to both! Today is the eve of Chinese New Year and the excitement is infectious.

Despite this I feel displaced, as everyone celebrates it makes me feel farther away from home and the people I love and miss.

As we watch the light fades and the bridge lights up for the night.

In the west of Lanzhou the streets are filled with light, as families enjoy the spectacular lantern festival. Fiery dragons, golden pigs and shining pagodas create a visual feast. 2007 is the year of the golden pig and promises to bring good luck and fertility - we hear it is expected that many babies will be born this year under this lucky sign.

Motorbikes and scooters beep their way through the crowds, and we are surrounded by dozens of curious people as we film the action.

On the night train to Datong on the eve of New Year, we hang our red chinese lantern in the quiet corridor. It seems most people are already at home with their families, and we nearly have a carriage to ourselves.

The lantern and our friendly hellos to the train staff earn us an invite to a invite to a traditional dumpling making party in the restaurant car - what a special treat. Flour fights and singing - its a great time of year to be travelling in China!

Everyone helped make the dumplings, even the Chinese policeman in the middle even got stuck in to the task. The dumplings were shared out for everyone at 10pm.

A deserted platform at 00.14 on New Years Day - fireworks crackle in the sky around us, and the train staff enjoy a moment of freedom to enjoy the blitz. No-one is travelling tonight, except three curious British people with a big map and a long way to go.

The next morning we see families enjoying their New Years Day together on the streets of Datong. Some are on wheels like this motorcycling family.

Crowds gather each time we stop to film, and we become the New Years Day entertainment. A woman stops to tell us the old streets will soon be lost to high rise buildings.... Beautiful smiles and clothes contrast with insistent street beggars, tugging sleeves for money.

At the edge of the big square in Datong, smoke billows from a dozen kebab stands, sending delicious scents into the air. Families stand in groups on the street, eating, wiping their childrens faces, and teenagers socialise under lamposts, meeting and greeting on their holidays.

People pass me and say 'hello!' when they see my strange British face - so I get used to it and start saying hello to anyone who stares. Its quite nice, makes me feel more part of things.

Golden pig photo for 2007!

On the same main square in Datong people fly their kites in the clear blue skies.

Later on that evening, the flats opposite the hotel glow red with lanterns, as the firecrackers and fireworks explode through the night.

Next day we explore the awe inspiring Yungang caves, west of Datong, featuring carvings of the Buddha which are over 1000 years old. The sandstone is worn to a smooth finish - the warm sunny colour reminds me of Roker cliffs and Marsden grotto, places I love to walk in and explore.

The carvings I like the best are the musicians and dancers, performing a concert for the Buddha - they are painted in such lovely colours, reds, blues and mustard tones. The monks painted the caves some 300 years ago.

I have never felt more welcome on this trip than in the traditional village home of Qin Rui Qing and her lovely family. They gave us a special meal of dumplings, fish, pork and chicken dishes - so delicious.

Yungang village is a coalmining community, with coal the main industry of Datong. Most families rent their single storey 2 room homes with a yard and communal outside toilet, buying their water for washing and cleaning from a street seller.

I had a feeling of warmth and togetherness about this place - everyone shares their lives together. I imagine this was how life was in the coal mining villages of Sunderland - traditional Sunderland cottages are not so different from these homes......

The coal mines of Datong produce a quarter of all of China's coal each year for export all over the world. Its been fascinating to follow the march of coal production across the world from west to east during our journey. From our startpoint in Sunderland where pits closed in the 1980s to Essen in Germany and Warsaw in Poland where coal mines are now closing and they are switching to cheaper imports from China.

In Datong we met these coal miners finishing their shift. Do they know how important their work is for all those people in the west who rely on energy to heat their homes and run their computers and tvs? Probably not - just like the rest of us they are doing a days work.